Sunday, February 16, 2003

BOBBY TO BEVIS


“Where is the Bevis Marks Synagogue?,” I asked the London Bobby. With the historical sounds of England’s famous Big Ben chiming in the far distance, only a solitary London policeman was around to offer up directions as he walked his beat through this quiet, isolated neighborhood.

Of course, even before asking, I assumed I was close to reaching Great Britain’s solemn synagogue because the street sign read “Jewry Street” . Yet downtown London’s one and only synagogue is still hidden... tucked away into a courtyard surrounded by security gates.

Eliyahu, a pleasant gentleman from Baghdad who works as the synagogue’s guard and caretaker, welcomed us, taking care to make sure that all visitor’s are careful on the premises of this 300 year old sanctuary.

Alone in this Orthodox building (“even the Queen of England would have to sit upstairs”), one quickly sees all the Jewish English history here. Names like Disraeli, Rothschild, Montefiore, The Lord Mayor of London have all made their mark here. The Bevis Marks Synagogue was opened in 1701 and is the oldest surviving congregation in Great Britain. The building was built on acts of generosity. The central candelabrum was presented by the Jews of Amsterdam. The roof is said to contain an oak beam presented by Queen Anne, originally from a Royal Navy ship. The synagogue builder returned his profits to the Congregation, refusing to financially benefit from building a house of God.

Each nook and cranny of this magnificent building offers the visitor a welcoming look at European Jewry, London-style. My family came to the city to marvel at its West End theatre (Mamma Mia and Blood Brothers are two of the best shows I have ever seen); its stately buildings (Buckingham Palace or Kensington Palace would be a great place to live); its outstanding churches (Westminster Abbey defines the word elegant); its famed music (the London Symphony Orchestra is a classic delight)...but for me, it’s not a complete vacation without seeing a local synagogue. From Tokyo to Singapore, from Teheran to Jerusalem, from Paris to Manaus Brazil, I’ve always enjoyed taking out some travel time to explore my proud Jewish heritage one international religious institution at a time.

Even if it takes a Bobby to find it.